20160621_131740
国内ではマイクロアルジェ・プランクトン・フードと聞いてもピンと来ませんが、海外ではハイエンド
ユーザーのリーファーが強く愛用されています。過去にも国内ではクロレラやスピルリナの国内
培養藻を使った乾燥及び冷凍珊瑚フードがありましたが栄養化は低く効果は少ないと思います。

海外ではクロレラやスピルリナより栄養化の高いNannochlorisやLSOCHRYSIS、ナンノクロロプ
シス(培養エネルギー用プランクトン)を使った珊瑚フードが次々と登場しています。

中でも珊瑚の餌としてカルシウム成分を多く含み不飽和脂肪酸も非常に高くアミノ酸、たんぱく質、
ビタミン
最も相応しいとされるプリュウロクリシスを試験飼料として試している所です。

DSCN3260
海外(REEF2REEF)でもマニアの間では自家培養でマイクロアルジェ・プランクトン・フード
を使っている方が時々居られます。

grow-out
とても真似出来ません^^; 活ブラインでも面倒なのに・・。

phyto-pharm
何か自家製は大変そうです。R2Rでマイクロアルジェ・プランクトン・フードを詳しく語るフォーラムを
下に貼りますね!

A Step-by-Step Guide to Culturing Phytoplankton

Background

It all started when I first saw a mandarin dragonet (Synchiropus splendidus) and decided that I wanted a pair for my 65 gallon tank. My profession is an engineer, so I tend to do a lot of research before jumping into something new. The research quickly led me to realize that my tank wasn’t large enough to support two mandarins on its own and that I would have to supplement the available copepods in the aquarium somehow. After a search at the local LFS, I recognized that I couldn’t afford to buy bottles of copepods every week and, to make a mandarin cost efficient, I would have to culture copepods on my own. I found some good news during the initial research- copepods are very hardy and live on detritus and other plankton found in the water column and settled on the substrate. Further research led to some bad news, it’s very hard to culture copepods on just detritus as the ammonia and nitrates build up quickly in a small culturing vessel, which leads to the culture’s crash. In addition, the most nutritious copepods are cultured on phytoplankton.

Introduction to phytoplankton

So, what is phytoplankton? Phytoplankton is a single-cell creature that makes up the base of the food chain in the ocean. It is responsible for half of the photosynthesis that takes place in the entire world! The next step up in the food chain is zooplankton, which include rotifers, copepods, Mysis shrimp, etc. These tiny organisms eat phytoplankton and are in turn eaten by corals, anemones, sea horses, fish and even the blue whale.
There are many types of phytoplankton. The most commonly cultured one in the marine aquarium hobby is Nannochloropsis oculata, usually referred to as Nanno. Nanno is very nutritious. However, it also has a very hard outer membrane and is hard for some zooplankton to digest. Rotifers have no problem with it, but copepods do. Another common type of phytoplankton used is Isochrysus galbana (Tahitian Strain), also referred to as T. Iso. T. Iso is another nutritious form of phytoplankton and balances well with Nanno. I also culture a diatom, Thalassiosira weissflogii (TW), since diatoms make up a large portion of a copepods diet in nature. Others use Tetraselmus (Tet) or Pavlova, which are supposed to be good and somewhat easy to culture, but I have never tried them myself. Nannochloris is another type of phytoplankton that is sometimes measured. I would recommend not using it for culturing zooplankton since it is not as nutritious as the other ones mentioned.

As I mentioned before, phytoplankton can be a very nutritious food. Specifically, it is the high amounts of EPA and DHA that make them so beneficial. Nanno and T. Iso are commonly cultured and fed to zooplankton because Nanno is high in EPA (30%) but low in DHA (0%) and T. Iso is low in EPA (3%) and relatively high in DHA (10%) and they are both fairly easy to culture. However, for the phytoplankton to be nutritious, it needs to grow on a nutritionally based diet.

I’ve seen several well written guides that talk about growing phytoplankton with common household fertilizer. While easy and convenient, after talks with several phycologists, they all said that it results in phytoplankton that is green (or brown), but nutritionally deficient. All of them recommended using fertilizer based on Guillard’s F/2. The one I use is Micro Plankton Grow from Florida Aqua Farms.

All phytoplankton grows in a certain pattern. The first part of the cycle is the initial cycle where the cells are just starting to divide. This is a relatively slow period of growth and lasts around a day (depending on the initial culture concentration). Next begins the exponential growth period. This is where the phytoplankton has the most nutrition and usually lasts between 6 and 10 days. After the growth curve is a period of no growth where the phytoplankton is basically using up its stored energy and nutrients because it has already consumed all the nutrients from the water. This period varies in time but can last several days for most phyto, but is relatively quick for T. Iso.

This growth curve is why it is important to harvest your culture during a set period of time when it is most nutritional and before it crashes. Normally, this will be between 7 and 10 days from the time the culture is started. It is particularly important with T. Iso because of the short period of time from its exponential growth period until it crashes.


http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/culturing-phytoplankton.59497/

Phytoplankto-Set-Up

私は自家製培養をして売るつもりはありません。そんなに暇でないから。でも大手企業のマイクロ
アルジェ・コーポレーション社とコラボして最高の国内産マイクロアルジェ・プランクトン・フードを
完成させたいと思います。

尚、従来の珊瑚フードは牡蠣エキス、魚卵、動植物性プランクトン、ツボワムシ等が主成分の為に
栄養塩が出やすくしかも開封後、数週間で痛むので使い難かったですがマイクロアルジェ・プランク
トン・フードは原料が藻だけなのでその様な心配が余りありません。

「またマイクロアルジェ・プランクトン・フードが流行っているというのはミニミニの妄想では?」と
言われそうなので海外のマイクロアルジェ・プランクトン・フードを紹介します。国内のマイクロアル
ジェ・プランクトンが非常に高価なのですが何とか500mlを2.000円で販売出来るように企業努力
を試みて見ます。ベルリンシステムやソフトコーラル・ハードコーラルにも使用出来る低栄養塩を
保てる珊瑚フードになるでしょう。

nannochloropsis-oculata-green-phytoplankton

image
reef_soup


Reef-Starter-Pack

001

2940_0_lebendes_phytoplankton_nyos_phyto_maxx

culturepack591ml

Nanno_Phytoplankton_large

IMG_2843

20160619_190945
チャイナマーケットhttp://chinamart.jp/から届きました。

20160619_191433
ミツバチの巣枠から蜜を絞る遠心分離機です。国内で買うと10万円もしますがチャイナマーケット
(タオバオ)だと7200円です。送料はEMSで5000円。

20160621_131409
色々買いました。国内の10/1の価格でした。

20160619_194238
これは国内で購入したダニ避けの農薬です。

20160621_130620
国内では12.000円しますが1.000円で買いました。情報、知恵、計画、行動、の4つがとても
必要な時代になったと思います。

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